A Fyne set menu

An offer in the Daily Telegraph has helped to make Loch Fyne affordable on a student budget: before 7pm, two courses from the set menu and a glass of house wine costs a mere £11 per head. A small but reasonable choice, including non-fish and wholly vegetarian dishes, is on offer, and the house wines are perfectly pleasant.

I accompanied my main course (salmon fishcakes) with the restaurant’s buttery mashed potatoes, whilst my fellow diner opted for a green salad. This, it turned out, was a mistake. Our starters and main courses were accompanied by the very same salad that now became a side order. The salad, which also appears on the main menu, consists of rocket, baby gem, endive and baby spinach. Its defects are two-fold: it is visually boring, adding little to the dish, and it is boring – especially after it has appeared so much. Intriguingly, it lacked any form of dressing. I hope the à la carte version – at £2.45 – is not similarly naked.

Loch Fyne’s good quality seafood ensured that my companion wasn’t left complaining and, at £22 for the two of us, neither was my wallet.