Olivo ***

Olivo is superb. The prices are reasonable for the area. The cooking is skillful, with a Sardinian twist to Italian food. The Spaghetti alla Bottarga is particularly delicious. It is one of the best pasta dishes in town.

So why just 3/5 this time? We were disappointed with the portion size of the Fritto Misto. We ordered it as a starter, but warned we were particularly hungry and paid the full main course price, so were expecting the usual dish. When I had it before the portion was perhaps twice as big, so it felt stingy.

My experiences at the other Olivo group restaurants on other occasions have been much better. Hopefully it was just a bad night.

Rating: 3/5 (usually 4 or 5)

Website: http://www.olivorestaurants.com/

Address: 21 Eccleston Street, London

Phone: 020 7730 2505

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